14.12.05

Panama-news: last part




Writing a final text is never easy. We finished our Panama trip like two weeks ago and we all got home safe.
The last river we paddled in Panama was the Monte Lirio-section of the Chiriqui Viejo, a world class grade IV-V section. The start is only a couple of km away from the center of the town of Volcan, at the take-out bridge from the Cerro Punta-section. From here you start for an amazing 20 miles run through some breathtaking canyons and pristinine forest. Luckely the water-level had dropped a little since the day we paddled the Cerro Punta-section. But soon the river gained volume again. Although we paddled a good pace, it took us almost 6,5 hours to complete the whole stretch. We have our doubts about this 20 miles. Anyway, it was worth the effort. Continuous clean and fair rapids in a breathtaking scenery. A couple of miles after the start the river entered a bambou-forest and the high water-marks scared us. Blind corners and high speed flowing water gave this part of the river an extra dimension. Luckely no log jams on our way. This part of river has got no escapes, no routes or bridges. Towards the end, on river right, a tributary entered the river with dark brown water and almost doubled the volume. The last 5 miles became very pushy. No time to lose, at 6.15 PM they turn out the light! We reached the Caisan-bridge just before dark. The water-level was half a meter higher than the day we paddled the Caisan-section. One last problem at the take out: no pick-up. So we hiked with our gear towards the village of Caisan and found our truck stuck in the mud. What a day! No rain and only sun-shine.
The Chiriqui Viejo is by far the most beautifull river we paddled in Panama. 130 Km of world class white water without any portage!
The next day we had planned to paddle another river, but because of the fatigue we descided to go back to David. A good descicion. When we crossed the bridge at the Rio Piedra, the river was black and in flood.
The last days of our staying we went to Bocas del Toro, Isla Colon. This island is a very popular destination and worth a visit. With a water-taxi you can do some island-hopping, snorkeling and do some swimming on remote beaches.
The taxi will pick you up at the back of your hotel. Time to relax and enjoy.

Panama is an oft-overlooked paddle destination, but worth a visit. But, due to several planned dam-projects the rivers are in danger. So, go to Panama before it is too late! If you need info about the rivers, feel free to contact me or try to contact Hector Sanchez, Chiriqui Rafting Company in Boquete or John Miller (NOC). The best season is september - november. The Chiriqui Viejo can be paddled during the dry season as well.

Local transport is no problem for kayaks.

Special thanks to Eskimo, Spiderpaddles and HF
PS: if you go to Panama, check out the local beer: Panama, Atlas and Balboa!
Text by Steven Van den heuvel
Photos by Bart Van Looveren